Clutch Actuator (automatic)

[glopez269]

Hey guys I have a question regarding the clutch acuators, I had a code P0902 ( clutch actuator circuit low). The problem is when I take off and step the gas when my rpm gets to 3 it slips and then catches after a big drop and catch kind of feeling, so I bought 2 cheap parts from Amazon which worked for 4 days and same problem again, so I’m going to buy a genuine part this time and cost some more so I was wondering if anyone could tell me which actuator I should change because I want to buy one this time around and see if one fixes the problem, so should I change the top or bottom actuator.
Thanks In advance

 

[scotman]

So, you replaced both A and B actuators?
P0902 isn't a precise A or B mil. It's for the circuit.
Have you inspected and cleaned up the ground connections? You don't mention if you have done the basic diagnosis for an electrical issue.
Actuator A is for 1, 3 & 5. Actuator B oversees 2, 4 & 6.
You say 3 is a fail. So, if you have determined that the grounds are clean and tight and have done both light and hard acceleration runs, i would say that the A actuator is the likely bad actor.
I only say that because i don't know what the power requirements for the actuator is so I could say test it and verify. But, you were happy to replace both actuators without any real troubleshooting. So, take another slightly less wild shot in the dark with my opinion.

 

[glopez269]

i honestly should’ve tried to clean the ground , what I did do as well I went ahead and changed both of the actuators and the ground wire that connects to the car I scraped of the paint because I’ve heard it makes a better solid connection , thank you for the help .

 

[glopez269]

Light came back on gunna try to clean the connections but if that doesn’t work would a new battery help?

 

[Handy Andy]

IT doesn't help the problem.

Lots of times those actuators are "fuzzy" when they get dirty, which makes the sensing and power delivery difficult for older systems. The problem is - heat, small metal fillings and carbon trails - so the thing really needs to be scrubbed and inspected for migration of contaminates into the wiring harnesses to these (gosh darn) things.

Then reseat the transmission TCM after cleaning that area up - getting down to bright shiny metal.

(Shure you can say the connector is clean, but this thing, if OEM, has already been exposed to the environment it's been stuck to since new.)

​

The problem with these "repeated" failures is due to the housing being an aluminum alloy that oxidizes - which protects the metal from further degradation, but it's hell on finding a good, reseated ground that it once had when new.

Oxides don't help to carry as much heat away as the fresh unexposed - unoxidized does, when it comes to the TCM mounting to the housing - on top of the fact that the housing is going to heat up to the engines temperature and it gets a soaking from the heat from that.