Spark plug adapter size

[Yowakawaka]

All cylinders had around 175 psi but only cylinder 1 was at 175. The rest were slightly below. However, I started the by getting 3 readings on each cylinder but the battery started to die on the first cylinder. I hooked up the battery charger and finished the test with just 2 readings on the last three cylinders. So, not using the full capabilities of the battery may have caused the compression to be a bit lower in the last three cylinders. All were very close tho.

Cylinder 1


Cylinder 2


Cylinder 3


Cylinder 4


This seems very straight forward. Not sure what to think of it.

As for the MAF sensor, I checked it and it didn’t seem damaged at all.











Reading the info on this above, I was thinking maybe a bad air filter would effect it’s performance.

Also, if I have a MAF sensor then I don’t have a IMAPT sensor? It’s ether or?

 

[Handy Andy]

You would not have an IMAPT sensor, due to the year they "switched over" was about 2013 production so you have the older MAF design and it's technology - which; thanks for these photos, there is evidence - because it shows the system is functioning - but the health - per your start to run a compression check issue - is clear, you have dirty or corroded connections for most of the heavy current the battery needs to supply is not there, you should be able to crank for at least 30 seconds with your compression check needing no more than a 10-second burst for each cylinder to find the "peaks" - but if the battery is weak or is not fully charged then you have your "run down" issue - you may just have to clean up connections to finish the job and it should clear a lot of these problems up.

 

[Yowakawaka]

Hey @Handy Andy The connections are pretty bad. I’ll give them a cleaning next time I work on it and check the date in the battery.

The compression test is good but what’s your opinion on the spark plugs?

 

[Handy Andy]

A slight soot for the high-mileage is considered normal - if you look at the electrodes, there is little wear - if they can be cleaned, you might be able to continue using them, but CHECK THE GAP first.

These are Iridium or Platinum - which makes them sensitive to gap spacing.

Iridium is very brittle - so it may be safer to just put in a set of fresh plugs of the type you had (the older ones in your hand) - these usually are "pre-gapped" they have to be for the type of tip the electrode is, that gap is preset and VERY difficult to get set right when it's worn or the lower ground electrode is worn out - just replace them is easier than to hassle with a gapping tool and trying to make the gap consistent.

Platinum is very pliable which makes them more susceptible to a type of warping and sputtering that this type of metal can produce in specific high-heat and vibration conditions - the tip can "migrate" and you'll have a potential fouling condition from the gap and the molten result of a strong arc - deforming the tip - changing the gap spacing.

The misfire may be from other issues like a poor electrode wear or cracked porcelain insulator - but a light soot is caused from oil blow-by, like oil or it's sludge, getting back into the intake from the crankcase - so that means a PCV valve - and when you change the oil - make sure you don't overfill - which would make this a chronic case of oil spilling into the intake manifold an fouling out ALL your plugs.

 

[Yowakawaka]

@Handy Andy So a new set of plugs and wires too.

So what else could have killed the cat I should check? At this point I’m thinking the cat is just old. I’ve been looking it up and the cheapest one I found local is $911. Steep price but I figure with all the work I’m gonna do myself, I’ll save a lot of money.

 

[Yowakawaka]

I’m see the spark plugs for the car have 2 different gaps. One is 0.35 and the other is .045. How do I know what one’s to get? I have the SE. Not sure if that matters.

 

[econoboxrocks]

@Handy Andy So a new set of plugs and wires too.

So what else could have killed the cat I should check? At this point I’m thinking the cat is just old. I’ve been looking it up and the cheapest one I found local is $911. Steep price but I figure with all the work I’m gonna do myself, I’ll save a lot of money.

I doubt your cat is dead. It's more likely that the cat sensors may be off. One or both need to be looked at before you replace the cat (if that's even doable).

 

[Yowakawaka]

@econoboxrocks are you referring to the o2 sensors?

Someone told me that lacquer thinner might clean it.

 

[Yowakawaka]

I just got out of a mechanic shop. According the the obd reader, the car was overheating. I saw and it got up to 230 degrees. Also, the fan is bad along with the fuse. They also said the cat needs to be replaced. It’s just old. I’ll need to replace both o2 sensors to pass smog as well.

Im ordering all the parts tonight. My question is, do you think I can get away with a Bosch o2 sensor? The below says it’s good for upstream and downstream. What do you think about not going with the originals?



Also, does it take a 190 or 180 thermostat? The Motorcraft is a 190.



let me know what you guys think.

 

[Yowakawaka]

This is everything I think I need except the belt that runs the water pump. I can’t find it. Can someone help me out with that please?

 

[Yowakawaka]

Also, what do you guys think about changing the ignition coil and what brand would you suggest?

 

[Mercurios2011]

@econoboxrocks are you referring to the o2 sensors?

Someone told me that lacquer thinner might clean it.

I have quite bit of customers that are old school mechanics ,and it was pretty common to use back then according to them ,it was a cheap and efficient way to clean converters

 

[econoboxrocks]

Motorcraft (OEM) is what it comes with. That's expensive, though.

 

[Yowakawaka]

Finally got all the parts. I was able to get the fan on today. Pretty easy. Put in a new fuse because the last one was blown. Tested the fan and it wouldn’t turn on. The car got up to 204 degrees according the the scan tool. However, it would turn in when I turned on the AC. It was a little delayed but it definitely turned on. Once on, the temp dropped down pretty quick. Is there another fuse that I should look at or something I can check?

 

[Yowakawaka]

Just realized there’s no fuse in the R7 spot of the fuse box. That’s the spot for the cooling fan. Can someone tell me if this is a 20 amp fuse? I stopped my autozone when I had a little extra time and they didn’t know.

 

[Handy Andy]

I recommend 40 amp - that is what my Fiesta (2018) uses. Square (Insert) Cartridge type

If you have the older 2011 Fiesta - that has that "wedge-shaped" fuse box in the engine bay.

​

R7 spot is the one for that 40A relay.

Surprised that the local Auto Store didn't know about the AMPERAGE of the fuse the Fan is powered with.

Perhaps it is due to the fact that the Fuse covers a BUSS supply of several devices, so if the Fuse quits - others sections that are supplied power by it - also fail. Don't worry, you're safe - the F3 40A fuse is specifically for that R7 relay. That Relay is rated 40A - so when you pull it off and find you have to replace it with a 3-rd party marketer - off-brand stuff - make sure that it is rated for 40A or above - no less.

Why do I ask, well a thread some time ago talked about the capacity of different Relays and how some relays have different size pins that can only fit in specific locations and only if it's oriented a certain way.

This thread might help you...
https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/overheating-issue.8441/post-21986

You asked about the Serpentine belt, that would be a 6PK1030F.

I'm also going to let you know that AC systems in cold weather conditions will not kick the fan on immediately - for it can cause another condition of the engine not warming up well enough to handle emissions when it's too cold outside. Until the motor and the ECM agree it's warmed up enough - that fan will not kick on.

How do you know?

Look at your Tach on the Pods - your dashboard.

When a cars warmed up and in Park - that idles about ~700-750 RPM.

Turn on the AC - you should see a rise in the pointer and then settles down to about ~800 RPM.

But when it's cold outside - that temp sender it telling the system "What? Are you Nuts?" when you first turn on the Defrost. Because the system is looking at two things, Warm up - and outside temp - it's not conducive to run a fan to blow on a cold motor - takes longer for the engine to warm up so it "waits" to turn on that fan until the engine is hot enough to stay hot while the AC works and the Fan can blow on the motor and not suck all the heat out of it.

So until RPM drops to that "idle" point - the system is not in a "lean mode" - but it might be in a LEARN mode instead.

But that does not mean the Compressor is not kicking in, - that's where you take a look at your dash to find that out.

Look at the RPM needle - if its' above your typical "idle" speed - then the compressor is on or at least the system is idle-up mode.

To prove that turn on the Climate control to Defrost and 1 or 2 on the Blower setting - with Heat on.

You may hear the compressor "kick in" and RPM jump as the system adjusts for load on the engine. The Fan might not. But, did RPM Go up?

Ok, turn off the Climate (Back to O setting) and wait one minute - this stabilizes the gas and pressures in the AC system the Pressure sensor verifies that the gas pressure is within range as a means to validate the emissions and load idle-up process. The RPM gauge will "stay up" and then relax back to idle in park speed - if it does this - then the system is ok - it's just too cold to turn on the FAN due to temperature and remember that pressure of a given volume of gas is different as temperatures change - so this is a simple self-check the AC system does as it provides a health-check for next time you use it.

 

[Mercurios2011]

I recommend 40 amp - that is what my Fiesta (2018) uses. Square (Insert) Cartridge type

If you have the older 2011 Fiesta - that has that "wedge-shaped" fuse box in the engine bay.

View attachment 8867​

R7 spot is the one for that 40A relay.

Surprised that the local Auto Store didn't know about the AMPERAGE of the fuse the Fan is powered with.

Perhaps it is due to the fact that the Fuse covers a BUSS supply of several devices, so if the Fuse quits - others sections that are supplied power by it - also fail. Don't worry, you're safe - the F3 40A fuse is specifically for that R7 relay. That Relay is rated 40A - so when you pull it off and find you have to replace it with a 3-rd party marketer - off-brand stuff - make sure that it is rated for 40A or above - no less.

Why do I ask, well a thread some time ago talked about the capacity of different Relays and how some relays have different size pins that can only fit in specific locations and only if it's oriented a certain way.

This thread might help you...
https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/overheating-issue.8441/post-21986

You asked about the Serpentine belt, that would be a 6PK1030F.

I'm also going to let you know that AC systems in cold weather conditions will not kick the fan on immediately - for it can cause another condition of the engine not warming up well enough to handle emissions when it's too cold outside. Until the motor and the ECM agree it's warmed up enough - that fan will not kick on.

How do you know?

Look at your Tach on the Pods - your dashboard.

When a cars warmed up and in Park - that idles about ~700-750 RPM.

Turn on the AC - you should see a rise in the pointer and then settles down to about ~800 RPM.

But when it's cold outside - that temp sender it telling the system "What? Are you Nuts?" when you first turn on the Defrost. Because the system is looking at two things, Warm up - and outside temp - it's not conducive to run a fan to blow on a cold motor - takes longer for the engine to warm up so it "waits" to turn on that fan until the engine is hot enough to stay hot while the AC works and the Fan can blow on the motor and not suck all the heat out of it.

So until RPM drops to that "idle" point - the system is not in a "lean mode" - but it might be in a LEARN mode instead.

But that does not mean the Compressor is not kicking in, - that's where you take a look at your dash to find that out.

Look at the RPM needle - if its' above your typical "idle" speed - then the compressor is on or at least the system is idle-up mode.

To prove that turn on the Climate control to Defrost and 1 or 2 on the Blower setting - with Heat on.

You may hear the compressor "kick in" and RPM jump as the system adjusts for load on the engine. The Fan might not. But, did RPM Go up?

Ok, turn off the Climate (Back to O setting) and wait one minute - this stabilizes the gas and pressures in the AC system the Pressure sensor verifies that the gas pressure is within range as a means to validate the emissions and load idle-up process. The RPM gauge will "stay up" and then relax back to idle in park speed - if it does this - then the system is ok - it's just too cold to turn on the FAN due to temperature and remember that pressure of a given volume of gas is different as temperatures change - so this is a simple self-check the AC system does as it provides a health-check for next time you use it.

I'll tell you the reason why the auto parts store didn't know , our computers systems are garbage xD, I work for Advance and have ties with The Zone and O' Really ?!

and let me you the easiest and simplest things aren't even listed on the catalog or are listed incorrectly or N/A

I feel bad for most customers that doesn't even know how to check their own oil let alone trouble shoot fuses and relays ,

I know what I'm doing and sometimes I have to go as far as FORD OEM numbers from online websites so I can cross them into out parts and prey we have em and they are correct

what a JOKE!! , truly annoying

 

[Handy Andy]

Thank you...I've had dealerships - scared stiff in thinking they may be proven wrong - shoo me out of the building because I asked about my own car...

As in - "No, were done." moments - you can search for my experience in Car wash and losing a mirror from their machine grabbing it and if they did not act quickly - they could have ruined their machine - so the priority of the mirror yanked off is one example, they didn't want to ruin their expensive car wash by letting someones mirror smash into other vehicles or their own equipment - is another...

That experience commentary is here...
https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/ford-fiesta-owner-quality-ownership-survey.397/post-21530

But knowing - and confirmed by you, that many an owner is "on their own" when it comes to truly doing the proper service and having those right parts - you have to take snapshots of the OEM.

Frustrating, isn't it? To me - some of those "parts" are in the Gallery-side of Ford Fiesta section as I can upload them. Many of "FORD OEM" parts can be reworked using the "Motorcraft brand" like panel and console switches and upgrades like the Control Arm, seals and strut mounts and others that Motorcraft can offer other retailers (even Nissan and Mazda)

But getting those numbers for cross references - like the Motorcraft ones, requires some foreknowledge - even relays are a $$$-mint if purchased thru dealerships that have the part.

We know they are made elsewhere for cheaper - but acquiring the direct line of the supplier of that part, those parts can work in the same socket and can be purchased for much less - but you need to know the DESIGN, pinout and schematic of the device - for many relays are - by what was said earlier - the pins are designed for the amperage expected - but also are proprietary in design so they only fit for a specific car or application in a set of models (vehicles) using a particular design or parts supplier and will only work or fit with that suppliers parts.

WOOF!

 

[Mercurios2011]

I'm telling you people will come in here thinking we have all the answers to everything automotive , and that is far ,far from the truth

and get pissy about it , most don't know like I said to even check their own oil , read a book for fuses or even what engine size is under hood

They have information available to them every single day and takes 60 seconds or less to initiate a search online with your smart phone which 85%-90 % people own these days

that's why forums like these are such blessing and I'm sure everyone on here agree to that ,cause we can come here , post a thread and someone will always have information ,

the right information none the less and are willing to share ideas ,help you trouble shoot things , by helping someone that they probably will never even meet in real life .

But you are right , Not even the dealers have all the right answers all the time ,every time

 

[Yowakawaka]

Hey Guys,

I made a mistake while working in changing the timing belt. I loosened the crank bolt and took off the harmonic balancer before locking the motor. Now I’m not sure where the timing is. How do I fix the timing now?