2011 Radio Failing

[FrankhMorpork]

Apologies if already addressed, but I couldn't find anything specific to this issue. What happens is that whenever we drive for about an hour or so, the radio suddenly starts cutting out with a pop and then coming back after maybe 1-2 seconds. This happens regardless of whether it's AM/FM, CD, Bluetooth, whatever. We thought the CD we were listening to was skipping, but then we tried a bunch of them and finally the radio. The only way to stop it is to turn the car off for a while. However, you can even still hear the pop in the speakers when it's turned off until (I'm assuming) it cools off or whatever capacitor(s) discharge(s).

I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on having someone prod around and tell me to replace the radio, as I've read a lot of people being told that and their own problems persist. I have experience with electronics, but not automotive setups.

 

[scotman]

Apologies if already addressed, but I couldn't find anything specific to this issue. What happens is that whenever we drive for about an hour or so, the radio suddenly starts cutting out with a pop and then coming back after maybe 1-2 seconds. This happens regardless of whether it's AM/FM, CD, Bluetooth, whatever. We thought the CD we were listening to was skipping, but then we tried a bunch of them and finally the radio. The only way to stop it is to turn the car off for a while. However, you can even still hear the pop in the speakers when it's turned off until (I'm assuming) it cools off or whatever capacitor(s) discharge(s).

I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on having someone prod around and tell me to replace the radio, as I've read a lot of people being told that and their own problems persist. I have experience with electronics, but not automotive setups.

I have not experienced anything like you have described. It should NOT cost you hundreds of dollars to have a Ford dealership technician diagnosis of the issue.
It could be a ground fault. It could be failed hard drive. Or maybe it is failing in some other, obscure way.
I can say that it is not difficult or expensive to replace the whole damn thing with another Sync system and control head from a salvage yard! Just make sure that you have the VIN and Sync radio I.D. numbers for the replacement unit. You will have to replace with the same sync level, no upgrade to sync3. Worst case, you should be able to have a functional sync system.

 

[FrankhMorpork]

Oh I didn't mean they'd charge for a quick diagnosis (poorly worded in the post). I've just read stories from other people saying they were told it was the radio, so they paid to have that replaced and mated with the car, and then the problem still persists. So then they're out the hundreds of dollars for doing that and still have their issue.

Maybe it is a bad ground, as the headlights will sometimes dim when I turn other features off and on and at least a third of the time this issue pops up it's preceded by a smell of hot electronics.

 

[ackcontrols]

@FrankhMorpork There was a recall from a few years ago that I had done on my 2011. Some of the symptoms were that the interior "ambient" lighting didn't work and the rear taillights went out, possibly the brake lights. Interestingly, the recall notice had appeared just around the time my car started having the issue. I live in Ottawa where the roads are salted heavily. May be worth investigating.

 

[scotman]

If you can remove the battery and the tray you will have ready access to a large number of chassis ground points. You might also want to have the battery condition checked. An aged battery can have an internal short that occurs when demand for power spikes.
Be very critical of the condition of a battery that is more than three years old! A tired or defective battery will place a high demand from the alternator. The resulting power spikes and drops can wreak havoc on an electrical system that has relays and canbus processor's that absolutely hate unstable voltage.